Two key measurements of the assessment are heart rate and lung volume. The heart rate is recorded throughout the assessment via your heart rate monitor while the lung volume is recorded in one of two ways. It is recorded pre-strength, cardio and post-strength for the manual spirometer or throughout the assessment for the digital spirometer. Small advice the manual version is sufficient, so we recommend this version to start. In using the spirometer, we are looking for the average of ten breaths.
The other key attributes are recording the load and reps for each strength exercise and the location or device used for cardio along with the average speed and average incline. It is recommended to maintain the highest possible treadmill incline while possibly increasing the speed to match.
In performing the strength exercises, we are looking for a load matching a repetition number in the high teens to low twenties. Also, there is no rest between side excluding the spirometer measurement. For the cardio round, the goal is to find a speed matching the nasal breathing throughout the cardio portion. Again there is no rest following except for the lung volume measurement. The Details: Why do you need to do an assessment? 1. The training program design and adaptation needs to match the needs of the individual training to adapt to the mountain. 2. There is a need to verify the individual has the strength and endurance to make it back down because the muscles working to take you up are the same ones preventing you from falling down the mountain, so we need to check in with them to verify they can take on the task. How do we design an assessment? 1. Assessing their strength, then going through a long bout of cardio and repeating the initial assessment of strength to determine any loss of strength capacity.
2. Design Knowing the attributes of the desired route and how it can impact the body's adaptation.
a. Slope b. Elevation change c. Distance d. Rock, snow, ice e. Technical aspects f. Approach time to base camp g. Pack load h. Sleep and recovery times i. Footwear and footwork
Choosing exercises matching the route's attributes to the individual's current abilities
How do perform an assessment? 1. Strength part 1 a. 3-4 strength exercises listed from easiest to hardest and chosen by individual's current ability b. Performing exercises in order and repeating three times c. Recording reps and time
2. Cardio a. Must have route preplanned or treadmill b. Use a full pack equivalent to what is expected on the route c. Use a full incline d. The speed should match the capability of the individual to breathe through their nose throughout the duration of time e. A minimum of 60 minutes as well as a minimum of 1000 feet in elevation change. Yes, you must surpass both
3. Strength part 2 a. Repeat the initial strength exercises with matching load and trying to achieve the same number of reps